Cartagena, Colombia is a fantastic place to visit, especially if you want to escape the cold winter months in the U.S. I went not knowing too much about the country and learned a lot; some of which I wished I knew before going. Learn from my mistakes and benefit from my experiences there. I’ve compiled a few thoughts from the trip that I think will be helpful if you’re planning a visit anytime in the future.
Verifly
I learned a lot about International travel in the COVID era and learned a lot about Colombia that I didn’t know before. First off, if you are traveling internationally I highly recommend the Verifly app. Its accepted at all of the airports and all you’ll have to do is show the green check mark verifying you’ve completed all of your pre-flight homework and they airport officials scoot you on through. It’s not required, but definitely makes life easier. Before traveling to Colombia, I uploaded my immigration forms, negative COVID test results, travel authorization, flight details and pre-boarding checklist. I did the same thing returning to the United States. Each country’s required documents are different and Verifly knows what each one requires. By the way, you need a negative PCR covid test within 96 hours of arriving to Colombia or you won’t be able to board your plane. Getting back to the U.S. only requires a rapid negative test result that can be done in country. In Cartagena, COVID testing isn’t hard to find and there are even labs that will come to your Air BnB or hotel to administer your test. You’ll see the COVID cars everywhere.
Google Translate
I am pretty used to traveling the Caribbean islands and Mexico and I usually get by with English and a little bit of Spanish. That was not the case in Colombia. There are very few people, at least when I went in late March/early April 2021, in Cartagena that speak English. I was very thankful for the little bit of Spanish I spoke, but I could have used a lot more. Be prepared. The Google Translate app was priceless. I would type or say what I wanted in English and the app translates it into Spanish which you can try to read or just hold your phone up so the person you’re speaking to can read it. Totally worth it.
Currency in Colombia
The currency here is the Colombian Peso and it’s a bit hard to grasp. The currency is measured in the thousands. So a beer at the bar might cost 25,000 pesos, but in reality it’s the same as about $6. U.S. currency is accepted everywhere, but you better be good at math to know what kind of change to expect because it’s going to be in pesos. What I found useful was using my Capital One Credit Card at established businesses like restaurants, lodging and bars. They don’t charge a foreign transaction fee and the conversion is done automatically.
That being said, having Colombian pesos is useful in certain scenarios. If you’re buying something from one of the many street vendors (more on that later) or tipping people you’ll want to have pesos. I wound up using an ATM in Cartagena inside the walled city to withdraw pesos. I paid a $5 ATM fee with Wells Fargo but I found it to be worth it. And if you’re traveling amigos with you are paying for stuff in pesos and you’re the only guy paying dollars, then it gets more complicated to split cab fares, tabs, etc.
Download the Currency app. It will convert the currency of any country you’re going to into any currency of your choice. So if you find yourself drunk on the streets of Cartagena at 2:00 in the morning and you want to buy some fried plantains from a street vendor who is asking for 15,000 pesos; you can quickly pull out the app and find out that the actual price is about $4. It helps to make sure the asking price is reasonable and makes sure you’re getting correct change.
Street Vendors in Cartagena, Colombia
One thing you must know about Cartagena that surprised me was the aggressiveness of the many, and I mean many, street vendors. My buddy and I would joke as we left our condo inside the walled city how many offers we would be made walking to the next destination. I shit you not the numbers would in the 30s or 40s just walking 2 or 3 blocks. If you’re polite, as I was the first day or two, and say no gracias they will keep pursuing you as you walk. The best thing to do is put on your resting bitch face and look right past them. After you wave them off, they may ask you “Where are you from?” in an attempt to start a conversation. DO NOT, AND I REPEAT, DO NOT ENGAGE.
There are even kids who are hustling on the streets. We ran into a few kids who would crack open a big bag of lollipops or warheads and were trying to sell the individual war heads from the bag. I am drinking a pina colada on the beach in Colombia, why the fuck would I want a warhead right now? Some were selling sticks of gum or mints. Anything they could find. While you sometimes have to be rude to get them to leave you alone, you have to admire the work ethic. Or do you?
With that being said, you can also buy some cool shit when the mood strikes you. I saved all my buying of useless tourist shit until the last day.
Fun Stuff in Cartagena, Colombia
The Rosario Islands in Colombia
This is definitely a must do trip if you’re visiting Cartagena, but there is a wrong way and a right way to do this trip. We chose the wrong way. You’ll find many people offer private boats and yachts to the islands, but being the suspicious person that I am, I decided to choose a legitimate business that had a storefront rather than Johnny Banana who claims to have a sick yacht. Such a bad move on our part. The problem with these legit businesses that makes these trips is that its cheap and when its cheap, you typically get what you pay for. Our ride to “pick us up” was 30 minutes late. We finally got a hold of someone who told us to come to a certain area for our ride. We arrived to find a bus full of not having fun non english speaking people. We would wind up riding in this bus to Playa Blanca for 2 hours. It was miserable. The bus ride was so long there was a scheduled stop by snacks and using a bathroom.
When we first boarded the bus, we passed the Cartagena Marina (foolishly thinking the bus was probably taking us there) with all the huge party boats and yachts getting ready to island hop to the same places we were about to go. After the 2 hour bus trip and 1 mile walk on the beach, we ended up a 9 person dingy that sat 15. We packed like sardines and there was no partying, no english and no fun.
Our second stop was a little island that had a bar. All the sick party boats were there and all the people on them were blasting music, dancing on the decks and having a blast. I snapped the following picture at one of the islands we stopped at. I might look happy drinking that Pina Colada out of a pineapple in paradise, but inside I was jealous AF. Pictured next to me is not our exact boat we were in, but its extremely similar in size and sexiness.
Playa Blanca in Colombia
Playa Blanca is one of the stops when you book a trip to the Rosario Islands so don’t also book a separate trip to Playa Blanca. By booking a trip to the Rosario Islands, you are effectively checking two boxes at once. Playa Blanca is pretty and the water looks amazing. I took this pretty cool picture while we were there.
There is, however, another side of Playa Blanca. Funny story while we were there:
As I was dragging a cooler of beer a mile down the beach following our guide to our shitty little boat we would get on, I stopped to kick off my sandals and take my shirt off. In my haste to catch up to the group I forgot to put my sandals back on. I realized this about 5 minutes later and decided to run back and get them. On my run down the beach I ran into a local who was wearing my sandals walking in my direction. I stopped him and said:
“Hey, those are my sandals.” He replied to me, “No, these are my sandals, you abandoned them.”
He was standing with his friend and I was a tourist in what seemed to me at the time to be like a beach full of locals out to rob, beg and leech whatever they could from anyone they could. I told myself, “Stand down, Dan. STAND THE FUCK DOWN!” I quickly pictured myself getting into a fight with this guy over some sandals (that also happened to give me a blister at the top of my foot) pictured a few possible outcomes:
- getting my ass kicked
- getting my ass kicked and robbed
- getting my ass kicked, robbed and thrown in jail
- getting my ass kick, robbed, thrown in jail, missing my return flight, my wife divorcing me, losing my job and my kids growing up fatherless.
None of these options were ideal. He asked for a “propina” which, thanks to my listening to a learn Spanish in 30 days audiobook I had been listening to, I realized was a tip. A tip for “finding my sandals”. I luckily had pesos on me (another good reason to have Colombian currency) and gave the guy 5,000 pesos or about $1.30. I strongly believe I made the right choice in paying the propina versus fighting the guy to get my sandals back.
In the end, go to Rosario Islands. But do so with a private boat/yacht. Playa Blanca was pretty and you can check that box with your trip to the islands. Do expect there to be beggars and vendors asking you every 30 seconds if you want to buy a bracelet, hat or even a warhead.
The Chiva Party Bus
100% take the Chiva Party Bus on one of your nights in Cartagena, Colombia. The bus will pick you up right outside the clock tower (you’ll know where the clock tower is and so does every person you’ll run into). You’ll be given a small bottle of Rum, but you can also bring your own booze. The bus takes you on a tour of Boca Grande, Getsemani, and Crespo. The bus will not tour the Walled City, probably because of traffic and foot traffic everywhere. The bus blares Latin Dance hits and everyone gets wild. There is lots of dancing and shouting and opportunities for pictures around the sites- it was a blast; definitely put it on your to do list.
Visit the town square in Getsemani, Cartagena.
Getsemani is a cool laid back area of Cartagena, Colombia. Its located right outside of the walled city well within walking distance. There is a chill vibe to the whole area and a lot less street vendors. This area of town seemed to be where a lot of the hostels in Cartagena are located. In the middle of Getsemani is a town square that is an awesome place to go to start off your night. There is a big open area where kids are dancing, stray dogs are wondering and plenty of people watching. If and when you come here, you absolutely must get a passion fruit rum drink from the cart guy. Apparently the guy who runs this drink cart, who looks to be about 21 years old, has been running this drink cart and making these passion fruit rum drinks since he was a teenager. AND he speaks English! The drink is down right fucking amazing and worth the walk to Getsemani alone. There is also some cool street art and delicious street food.
Watch the sunset at Cafe Del Mar inside the Walled City
Cafe Del Mar in Cartagena, Colombia is located inside the walled city. This restaurant offers breath taking views of the city and the best spot to see the sunset. We were told reservations were needed, but if you arrive at 5 pm (when they open) you can get a table.
Rent a bike and cruise the city
Ok, not going to lie. I almost died several times while riding a bike around Cartagena. It is not a bike friendly city. The sidewalks are narrow, the drivers don’t give a shit about you and there are random huge potholes and gaps on the sidewalks. It does, however, allow you to see the city from a different view. We rented bikes inside the walled city, cruised Getsemani and went to Boca Grande. The ride to and from Boca Grande was definitely the most sketchy. And in case you were wondering, you are not immune from street vendors while on the bike but it is much easier to ride on past and put them in your rear view. We were pulled over by the Federal Police and asked to wear our masks while riding bikes.
Boca Grande Beach
The Boca Grande beach is a very quick cab ride from Getsemani or the Walled City. Once there, you’ll more than likely be greeted by a local who will happily volunteer to be your personal concierge. Anything you need this guy will get it done. It appears these concierges aren’t actually employees of any company, but rather local hustlers working independently using the bars and restaurants as means to deliver service to people who are too lazy to trek the up the beach every-time they want a beer or food. We were those lazy people. You’ll get your own set of chairs with an umbrella and he’ll get you anything you want including, apparently, the well known major export of Colombia; if you catch my drift.
The street vendors here are just as bad as in the Walled City. And beware of the massage therapists roaming the beaches that just want to give you a “souvenir” in case you decide to get a full body massage. Once that “souvenir” of the foot massage is over, its very difficult to ask them to leave. Your wallet says leave, but your feet getting the foot massage says keep going. If you’re hungry, you can literally see fisherman pulling red snapper from the ocean and bringing it up to the huts at the top of the beach to prepare for ordering. I’ve never had fish fresher than this. Each plot of chairs is roped off into sections. We weren’t sure if this was a COVID thing or it had always been that way.
Other things to do:
- Take a walk on top of the wall.
- Enjoy some amazing coffee. FYI- Juan Valdez is the Starbucks of Cartagena, don’t go there.
- Go to a roof top bar (most have a small pool) and get a drink while taking in the views of the city.
- Get some fried plantains on the street. More than likely, they were picked that very day and peeled seconds before you got it.
- Buy a Red Snapper plate on the beach.
Where to Stay in Cartagena, Colombia
There is basically 4 areas to stay in Cartagena, Colombia. Crespo, The Walled City, Getsemani and Boca Grande.
Crespo- the only perk I see to staying in Crespo is that its extremely close to the airport. However, being that all the areas are a short and cheap ride to the airport I don’t see the benefit.
Getsemani- this area is packed with hostels and plenty of air BnBs. There are cool areas to see, not a lot of street vendors and plenty to places to drink and eat. It’s within walking distance of the Walled City too. This area would definitely warrant some consideration if I were to go back.
Boca Grande- The big perk here is the modern living. Most of the air BnBs will be located inside of the major high rises here and you’ll benefit from modern amenities including nice fitness centers and rooftop pools. Plus you also have the beach within walking distance. You’ll need a cheap cab ride into the Walled City.
The Walled City- in my opinion, this is where you want to stay, especially if its your first time visiting Cartagena. This is where all the action is. Plenty of places to stay, eat and drink. Its comes with loud streets, car horns, and tight quarters but I think its worth it.
In conclusion, Cartagena is a breath taking place to visit and is a total cultural change. Things open later and stay open later. The coffee is amazing, the city is always buzzing (except prior to 9 am) and the weather is consistent. Just remember to keep your wits about you and be prepared for people wanting your money everywhere you go. Barely anyone speaks english. Download the apps I spoke about at the top of the page, they will help you incredibly.
